The commercial production of grapes and wine began Essex County about one hundred years ago. The industry grew and prospered for several years and then declined rapidly and to date the industry has not been rekindled.

I propose to review the factors which in my opinion resulted in the establishment of this type of agricultural enterprise and the associated wineries in Essex and then the factors which led to the growth and development of the industry and finally an analysis of the decline of the industry.

The Establishment of the Industry

One of the major areas of importance in the grape and wine industry of the County of Essex was Pelee Island as this is where the industry had its beginnings.

American Influence

Grape growing was very successful on Kellys Island and other Bass lslands to the south of Pelee Island. (2) A good boat service connected these islands with the American mainland and so they enjoyed an influx of tourists. Wine cellars, hotels and stores did a good business. (1) It would seem that Captain David McCormick of Pelee Island had been watching the growing business of the American Islands and perhaps would have encouraged the development of the grape industry earlier but for a land problem.

Property ownership on Pelee Island for many years was in dispute and land did not change hands because of the death of its owner Wm. McCormick. It was 27 years after McCormick's passing before his will was complied with and title perfected. (1) The very first land to be sold after the settlement was in 1865 to Thaddeus Smith, J. D. Williams and Thos. S. Williams. (1) These men were from Kentucky, although Mr. J. D. Williams resided in Windsor and had been encouraged by Captain McCormick to invest in land on the Island. (1) In 1866, twenty-five acres of grapes were planted. This extended to thirty-three acres in the course of three years. (1) The Wardroper brothers followed in 1866 and planted 15 acres to grapes. (1)

It would seem obvious that the reason for growing the grapes on Pelee Island was to make wine and so the Williams and Smith built a large wine cellar and installed a press. The place called "Vin Villa Vineyards", (1) The first crop of grapes was to be harvested in 1868. (3) The wines were to find markets in much of Canada as well as in the U.S.A.
.

A major factor in the location of the grape industry on Pelee Island and its subsequent spread to the mainland was the influence of the nearby American Islands on which grapes grew well.

The observations by Pelee Island owners that the islands to the south were doing a good business with wines must have had some impact on Captain McCormick to seek out and encourage J. D. Williams to invest in the grape and wine industry on Pelee. Neil F. Morrison in an article states emphatically, "American influence was responsible for this industry". (2)

(b) Soils

Grapes may be grown on a variety of soils. Good vineyards may be found on clay soils, sandy loams, sand and gravel soils, although the preference is for silty soils which are well drained. (4) Pelee Island, at the time of the introduction of grapes, had a large acreage of marshland but the high land was clay and because it was over limestone, was well drained. The areas on the mainland of Essex where grapes subsequently were grown, included which well drained sand and, loam soils. These light and medium soils which at that time could be selected for grapes, are indicated on the attached Texture Map of Essex County.

Soil type and drainage were both satisfactory on the upland of Pelee Island and on some areas of the mainland for the growing of grapes. The attached map of Essex indicates areas which were considered naturally good or imperfectly drained. Only the well drained parts of the imperfectly drained areas would be used for grapes until drainage was improved.

(c) Climate

The chief factor in determining adaptability of a region to grape culture is temperature. The grape does best in an equitable temperature and does not thrive where there is a great daily range. A cool spring and a warm fall is preferred. (5) Pelee Island was particularly suited to grape growing as were the other islands. Lake Erie had a moderating effect on climate to give the more equitable temperatures as compared with the mainland. Pelee Island and Essex County had an advantage over other Canadian growing areas in that its warmer climate allowed the prized Catawba variety to be grown at that time. Fall frosts were not a problem for concern in Essex County because the season is longer than any other in Ontario.

The attached "Heat Unit map of Ontario shows that Pelee island and South Essex have more units of heat for crop growing than the Niagara area.

In summary the climate favoured the location of the grape industry in Essex County.

(d) Early Markets

The first markets there probably local, serving tourists who visited the Island just as the American Islands had been selling wines to tourists.

There were no tariff walls or customs and excise barriers in those days and the wines of Vin Villa Vineyards were widely sold in Eastern United States. (6)

The Pelee Island location was good in relation to American tourist industry and markets in the large cities of the nearby, U.S.A. However, the location was not as good for the Ontario markets as it was a considerable distance to the large cities of Toronto and Montreal.

In 1875, Mr. T. Smith visited different towns in Ontario for the purpose of introducing the Pelee Island wines. While he was on this trip he met Mr. J. S. Hamilton of Brantford. Mr. Hamilton was head of "Hamilton and Dunlop", a liquor firm and he became very interested in Pelee Island wines and arranged to sell all that Mr. Smith and the Wardropers could produce. (1) These new markets opened the way for the expansion of the industry in Essex County.

Growth and Development of the Industry

(a) New Locations

The land on Pelee Island as mentioned earlier was owned by the McCormicks and because of estate problems, was not available for sale for many years, but the settling of the estate and introduction of the grape industry offered the owners an opportunity to sell. By 1871, the number of vineyards had greatly increased and more and more people were coming, to Pelee. In no time at all the Upland Pelee Island area was covered with vineyards. (1)

When the available land on Pelee Island become covered with grapes, other land was sought in order to grow grapes to supply the market. The mainland area around Leamington, had a similar climate to Pelee Island and although the soil was sandy it had the prerequisite of being,, well drained. A second area in Essex County which for a time had many grapes was around the town of Sandwich. Here again there are some lighter, well drained soils as indicated on the soil and drainage maps.

It is likely that most of these vineyards were planted in the early 1880's. From the book, Garden Gateway to Canada, I quote, ",Grapes were a heavy crop on the mainland as well as on Pelee Island. The price in the Autumn of 1890 was four cents per pound at which time tons and tons were being shipped from Leamington. At that time., Ontario Deputy Minister of Agriculture, Blue, visited the vineyards in the vicinity of Sandwich and the wine press of Ernest Girardot, mayor of the town. Most of the vines in his 600 acre tract were less than ten years old." (3)

(b) Increased Acreage

The acreage statistics for the early years of grape production are not readily available. Ontario acreage have been reported as 400 acres in 1880; 2,400 acres in 1890 and 5,750 acres in 1901. (7) These figures are much lower than other estimates which have acreages at 1880 as high as 2000 acres. The Ontario Bureau of Industries did not report vineyard acreage separately until 1897, when Ontario recorded 11,100 acres of vineyards. (8) The discrepancy in acreage can likely be accounted for in part by considering that the 400 acres in 1880, reported by Clement (7), were commercial grape acreages in production while a figure of 2000 acres would include the acreage of many home gardens and newly planted grapes not in
production. Regardless of the exact acreage the later part of the 19th century was one of rapid expansion of the grape industry.

Essex County acreage which started with about fifty acres in 1870 on Pelee Island grew and expanded to 1,085 acres by 1897. (8) The peak acreage was recorded in 1904 at 1794 acres. (11) During the years around 1900, Essex was the third most important county in grape production behind Lincoln and Wentworth. Thus at the beginning of the century the grape industry was ,well established on the farms of Essex.

(e) New Markets

In order to have the acreage expansion just described it was necessary to have a demand for the grapes and grape products. The majority of the grapes at that time as today, were used to manufacture wines and juice.

Mr. J. S. Hamilton continued from 1876 onward as a major influence in the grape industry of Essex. He continued to buy all the wine that Smith and Wardropers of Pelee Island could produce and this arrangement lasted for twenty years. (1) These wines became well known through Mr. Hamilton's wise advertising, especially "Vin Villa"brand.

The quality of the wines was very good in competitions between 1879 and 1882. The Pelee wines won seven medals. (2) The wines won the favor of connoisseurs as far away as Quebec, and were responsible for changing the islands name to Pelee Island, by the Dominion Postal Department. (6) The Island up to this time was called "Point au Pelee".

Business was going so well for J. S. Hamilton, that about 1890 he decided to build another wine cellar on Pelee and to expand the wine making business. This business was known as the J. S. Hamilton Company. He also organized another company known as the Pelee Island Wine and Vineyard Company Limited. The wine which was made on Pelee was shipped in casks on Lake boats to Brantford for bottling. (15)

We have already noted the Girardot wine press which was in operation in Sandwich in 1890 and made wines from the grapes of his vineyard.

There were,, in addition to the grapes marketed to the local wineries, a large number of grapes shipped from Essex County to wineries elsewhere. A Pelee Island dispatch of October 13, 1893., read, James Srigley sent 27 tons of Catawbas to the T. G. Bright and Company, Niagara Palls, for wine making". (3)We also note that in the autumn of 1890, the price was four cents per pound and that "tons and tons were being shipped from Leamington". (3) In 1891, twelve carloads were reported leaving daily from Windsor. (3)

In addition to these markets there was a market for fresh grapes in local stores and to householders who wanted to make their own grape juice or wine. The Fruit Growers Association of Ontario, in the late 1890's and about 1900 tried to ship Ontario fresh grapes to Great Britain. Although some arrived in good condition, others did not. The 1900 Annual report reflects the attitude, "We would think that from this shipment that we would never be able to export our grapes with profit."(10)

It would appear that good markets were available in Essex County and in other parts of Ontario for the grape industry. The wines continued to find favour in both Canada and the U.S.A.

(d) Profitability

One of the major incentives to the development of any enterprise is the profit motive. Even today it is not easy to get cost of production and profit information from farmers, so a cost study of the grape industry in the 1800's must be a general one.

Land prices in Essex County were competitive with other grape growing areas and perhaps had a advantage in this regard. The average 1896 land price in Essex County was $35.92 per acre compared with Welland County at $37.42, Wentworth at $47.42 and Lincoln at $49.06. (8) These are average values and it is probable that the well drained soils of these counties would sell at a premium of $25.00 per acre over the average price. This would put bare land for grape production at between $60.00 and $75.00 per acre in the 1890's.

Other input costs for growing grapes would be similar regardless of location of the grapes within the growing areas of the Province. Figures are not available for the cost of the specific equipment required for grapes but in 1896 the average cost per acre for equipment and implements in Essex County was $3.13 compared with Welland at $3.10; Lincoln at $4.67 and Wentworth at $3.98. (8)

The cost of farm labour for the Province averaged $24.11 per month without board in 1896 and for the Lake Erie district the cost that same year was $23.44 compared to Lake Ontario district at $23.17. There appears to be little difference in labour costs.

The cost of vines, posts and wire, pruning equipment and containers for the grape grower, probably varied to some extent between regions but the differences would not be great.

In general it would seem that Essex grape growers were in a good competitive position relative to other areas as far as input costs were concerned.

The price received for grapes is not easy to determine from data provided by statistics. In 1868 speculators were offering 4 cents per pound for grapes. (15). It was noted earlier that some grapes in the Autumn of 1890 were selling for 4 cents per pound. (3) The Annual report of the Fruit Growers for the year 1900 noted that grapes were worth 2 to 3 cents a pound in the vineyards. (9) Yields per acre are even harder to come by than the prices. One yield value mentioned is the immense crops of Pelee of 4 and 5 tons to the acre. (1) This is a superb yield but would not be the average for the grape crop of the County which would probably be closer to 2 to 2 1/2 tons per acre. Thus at 2 1/2 tons per acre and 3 cents per pound the gross return per acre would be $150.00.

This would allow for a modest return but other fruit crops could do better. The cherry and peach, generally speaking, promised greater returns and under favourable cultural and market conditions give high returns per acre. "Average yields, average prices and a steady income, that is the place the grape holds", was Mr. Clement's comment (7)

A major factor in profitability is transportation costs to markets. Essex County did have a few wineries which provided a nearby market but many grapes had to be shipped by rail to the wineries in the Niagara Peninsula. Wines produced in Essex also had to be shipped longer distances to the Toronto and Quebec markets than did the Niagara Wines. In spite of these added costs, Essex wines and grapes were able to compete and the industry was able to thrive in the early 1900's. This could in part be attributed to some varieties such as Catawba which was an excellent wine variety but the maturity was too late for the Niagara district. The general excellent quality of the grapes in Essex , coupled with the later varieties of the area, probably allowed a premium price which somewhat offset the added transportation cost.

It would appear that grapes were not a strong competitor for acreage against other fruit crops but offered growers a steady and certain income. Grapes were seldom a complete failure. The increases in acreage therefore continued at a good pace in Essex County into the 1900's.

The Decline of the Industry

(a) Land Competition

The growing of Burley Tobacco had been carried on for many years by Indians and early pioneers in Ontario. Commercial production of tobacco began about the year 1800, in the counties of Essex and Kent.(12) During the 19th century acreage varied greatly depending on markets. However, in 1897, the tobacco industry was given a great impetus when protective duties on imported leaf were imposed. (3) A British preferential tariff arrangement was also adopted about this same time and so Essex County tobacco prices rose. (3)This made tobacco a very remunerative crop in comparison to other crops.
 

Burley tobacco, like the vineyards and other fruit and vegetable crops preferred the better drained soils. Very little of the poorer drained soils had been tile drained so the land available for tree fruit, grape and burley tobacco production was the 5% of Essex County soils which were well drained and the better parts of the 16% of Essex County soils which were imperfectly drained. (13)

On Pelee Island the shift from vineyards to burley tobacco was made just after the turn of the century. The book "Pelee Island Then and Now", reads, "Shortly after the beginning of the century, it was discovered that burley tobacco could be grown on Pelee very successfully. Tobacco acreage climbed as vineyards began disappearing". (1)

On the mainland tobacco was causing land prices to soar. The book "Garden Gateway to Canada" gives the following account. "A farm on the town line between Mersea and Gosfield brought over $400 an acre in 1912, whereas five years previously it could command only $100 an acre. Americans were willing to pay high prices for tobacco lands both on the Mainland of Essex and on Pelee Island. (3)

In 1913 flue-cured tobacco was introduced to add still further to land pressures. By 1924, Essex and Kent counties grew nearly 7,000 acres of flue-cured tobacco and 20,000 acres of burley tobacco. (12)

It is my view that the revival of the burley tobacco industry in Essex was the major factor in the decline of vineyards on Pelee Island and in South Essex. Vineyards could not compete against this high value crop nor could grape growers afford this high land prices.

The vineyards of the Sandwich area did not succumb to the tobacco industry but were probably lost to real estate speculators. The vineyards were located in the vicinity of Prince Road, Malden Road and along Huron line on the edge of Sandwich in the lighter well drained soils.

Objibway had been selected as the site of the United States Steel Corporation's Canadian plant. The land was bought in 1907 but the announcement was not made until 1913. A real estate boom developed causing prices of adjacent farm land to soar to $1,500 per acre. Farm lands on Malden Road, almost as far down as the Canard River, found eager buyers. (3) The large Girardot Vineyards were according to the recollection of Mr. E. Bezaire, Windsor Star reporter and a distant relative of Girardot's, purchased at this time and some of the vineyard removed. The remaining vines were left to deteriorate.

Just as urban pressures on farm land are a major influence today, they affected the grape industry in Essex County in the early 1900's.

(b) The Loss of Markets

E. Wardroper of Pelee Island in about 1896, sold his wine tanks to the Pelee Oil Company and turned his wine cellars into a private residence. This eliminated one of the potential local markets for grapes before the close of the century. The Girardot, Hamilton and Pelee Island Companies appear to have remained in production until the First World War.

The wine producers and growers of the Niagara Peninsula were doing a considerable amount of experimental work with new varieties and improving quality.

This work on improving the quality and kind of grapes which could be grown in the Niagara Peninsula enabled this area to advance ahead of the Essex area.

The variety Niagara introduced in 1882 was controlled by the Niagara Grape Company and strongly advertised and promoted in the Peninsula. It remained the most popular and widely grown white grape for years and still held this position in the 1920's.(4)

The location of the major wineries in the Niagara Peninsula was a factor which did not encourage the development of grape production in Essex. Transportation of grapes was expensive and as Niagara developed better varieties and quality, the wineries were not as willing to pay premiums on Essex grapes.

However, under the circumstances, all of these factors such as development of grapes in other areas, distance to market, loss of Essex County wineries were the only factors slowing the growth in the County. The rapid decline in acreage was brought about by the competition for the land by tobacco and by real estate speculators. This is not to say that the decline would not have occurred but it is unlikely to have happened so quickly.

(c) Reduction of Grape Acreage

The available statistics would seem, to confirm the idea that as tobacco acreage increased there was a rapid decline in grape acreage.

The tobacco acreage of the late 1890's was probably a few hundred acres although no acreages are mentioned, the following statistics might give some indication. Pelee Island in 1897, grew 360 tons of grapes and 7 tons of tobacco. (3) Considering grapes at 2 tons per acre and tobacco at 1/2 ton per acre, the corresponding land acreages involved would be, 180 acres of grapes and 14 acres of tobacco. In 1897, Lewis Wigle is reported to have purchased 600,000 lbs. of tobacco and required a further 150,000 lbs. (3) If we assume he obtained this 37 1/2 tons and the yield was 1/2 ton per acre, then this would require 750 acres. This would account for the majority of tobacco in Essex County at that time. The tobacco industry grew as did the grape industry until 1904, and then tobacco forged ahead. Grape acreage dropped from 1784 acres in the year 1904, (11) to 654 acres in 1910. (14) The acreage of tobacco in 1910, for Ontario totaled 7,000 acres with Essex as the major producer followed by Kent. (12) The decline in grape acreage continued and by 1914, only 275 commercial acres of grapes were recorded. (7) This declined still further until in the 1920's there were less than 50 acres and today less than 25 acres.

(d) The New Wineries

The wineries mentioned to date are not the ones remembered by the present residents of the County. They are more apt to remember the three or four wineries which existed in prohibition days. These were located in Windsor and produced wines from grapes purchased outside of the County. There were only ten wineries in the Province in 1916 and then in the next 11 years, thirty-three new wineries were started. This was because wine made in Ontario became the only legal alcoholic drink that could be sold in the Province during this prohibition period which ended in 1927. (15) Prohibition in the U.S.A. lasted until much later and many of the Windsor wineries continued in production until the late 1930's and possibly some of this found its way to U.S.A. markets.

Summary

The grape and wine industry was once well established in Essex County. The decline was not due to cultural practices but to alternate crops which proved more profitable. Tobacco was the main competition causing the rapid decline.

Today in Essex County the tobacco has left for other areas or production has ceased. Early market vegetable crops are now less important than a few years ago. Perhaps the grape will return and the wineries too. The land is available, cultural practices can be learned, however, markets must be found that will make this an economic enterprise for Essex County landowners.

 

Note - Maps were not available for this booklet. They can be found on pages 61 & 62 of the Soil Survey of Essex County, Report No. 11 of the Ontario Soil Survey. In general, areas around Leamington, Kingsville,- Harrow and Sandwich are light or medium soils with good or imperfect drainage.

 

Ontario Heat Unit maps are printed in several publications, including Field Crop Recommendations.

 

1. Hooper, Marion McCormick, Pelee Island Then and Now, Pub. 1967, paragraphs 12,16 and 19.

2. Morrison, N.F., Ph.D., Pelee Island., Canada's Farthest South; A radio sketch,, Essex Historical Society, Aug. 15, 1946.

3. Morrison., N.F., Ph.D., Garden Gateway to Canada, 1964, pages 131, 132, 150, 151, 152, 155, l56, 234 and 236.

4. Palmer, E. F. and Van Haarlem, J. R., The Grape in Ontario, 1927, bulletin 328 of the Ontario Department of Agriculture.

5. Hedrick, A. P.,The Grapes of New York, 1908, Vol. 3, part II, State of New York 15th Annual Report Department of Agriculture, page 69.

6. London Winery Limited, London, Ontario, History of London St. Augustine Communion Wine, page 2.

7. Clement, F. M., The Grape in Ontario, 1916, bulletin 237, Ontario Department of Agriculture, pages 3 and 30.

8. Annual Report, Ontario Department of Agriculture, 1897, including 16th Annual Report of the Bureau of Industries, pages 62, 103 and 110.

9. Annual Report, Ontario Department of Agriculture, 1900, including 19th Annual Report of the Bureau of Industries, pages 34 and 49.

10. Woolverton., L., The Report of the Fruit Growers' Association, from the Annual Report of the Department of Agriculture, 1900, page 49.

11. Annual Report, Ontario Department of Agriculture, 1904, including Annual Report of the Bureau of Industries, page 34.

12. Tait, Lyal, Tobacco in Canada, The Leaf of the Petuns, 1968, pages 59, 60 and 67.
 

13. Richards., N. R., Soil Survey of Essex County, 1949, pages 60 to 70.
 

14. Annual Report, Ontario Department of Agriculture, 1910, including Annual Report of the Bureau of Industries, page 34.

15. Rowe, Percy, The Wines of Canada, 1970, page 35, 38 and 46.

16. 1971 Field Crop Recommendations, Ontario Department of Agriculture and Food publication, page 6.